Dr. Jeannette Graf on cosmeceuticals: What works, What's Hot

 Distinguished dermatologist Jeannette Graf, MD, a highly regarded expert in the field of cosmetic dermatology, was a featured presenter on the topic of cosmeceuticals at the highly anticipated Cosmetic Surgery Forum in Las Vegas in early December 2014. A prominent independent dermatologist, and renowned as a groundbreaking pioneer in the anti-aging power of peptides, Dr. Graf lectured alongside three other leading dermatologists at a session titled "Cosmeceuticals: What Works, What Doesn't." Below, find highlights from Dr. Graf's presentation, including her list of must-have cosmeceutical skincare products:
Cosmeceuticals - What's Hot:
  • A New Generation of Oils - Advances in the ability to refine oils have led to a huge category of therapeutic options targeting a myriad of skin care needs and conditions.
  • Oil Boom for Every Skin Care Need - There are oils for every skin type - even oily complexions-that are also versatile for both a.m. and p.m. usage. The newest oils are pure and non-comedogenic, and the face oils can provide long-lasting hydrating benefits. The oils can be efficient as cleansers because oil attracts oil. Providing antioxidant and anti-aging benefits, oils can leave skin radiant without any greasy residue.
  • When It Comes to Beauty Waters There is No Drought in Sight - Hydrating toners, mists, cleansing waters and soothing waters are being developed and growth in these products has increased globally by 6% (data from NPD group). Water-based products, often using extracts from oils, are found to be light-textured and hydrating.
  • Micellar Cleansers - These cleansers contain "micelles" (which consist of a hydrophilic outer layer (water-loving), and hydrophobic inner layer (oil-loving - water hating) in an aqueous suspension, which require no rinsing while cleansing effectively and gently.
  • Fusions of Oil and Water - Color cosmetics are mixing silicone based make-up with water based primers. This will keep skin hydrated under oil-based make-up.
  • Probiotics - Probiotics are hot because they help to restore the balance of the natural microflora of the skin needed for optimum skin health. Skin topical probiotics are actively being researched, such as lactobacillus ferment, to help restrict the growth of harmful micro-organisms and to provide broad spectrum antimicrobial protection.
  • East Indian Sandalwood - It's a newly discovered ingredient found in the bark of the East Indian Sandalwood tree in Australia where it is most abundant. A parasitic tree, it's known for its distinctive grey bark. The extract from the bark has antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory benefits.
  • Powder Spray Deodorant - This is a new application of deodorant entering the market. A spray in powder form, it goes on dry so there's no waiting. Plus it's less irritating.
  • Coconut Oil is Still Hot - Lauric acid raises both good-for-skin HDL and LDL cholesterol levels and also has antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Virgin Coconut Oil has medium chain triglycerides - and is not as risky to health as other saturated fats. Solid at room temperature, it's an excellent moisturizer that melts to body temperature.
  • Vitamin D3 - Vitamin D3 is still trending. It's essential for everything from bone health to lowering your risk for heart disease and more; when used in skin care Vitamin D3 regulates antimicrobial function in skin and is essential for wound healing.
Cosmeceuticals Dr. Graf Likes:
  • Retinol - The most abundant form of Vitamin A in skin, it's excellent for photodamaged skin, fine lines and wrinkles, and elasticity.
  • Glytone Fading Lotion - The combination of Glycolic Acid (5%) and a pH of 3.6 works synergistically with Hydroquinone (2%).
  • Glytone Anti-aging Serum - The powerful antioxidants Vitamin C, Vitamin E and Red Tea Flavonoids provide excellent skin penetration and remain in the skin up to 48 hours.
  • Avène XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Cleansing Oil, XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Cream and XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Balm - They're all excellent for dry, itchy skin and an impaired moisture barrier. The ingredient I-modulia® isolated from the thermal spring waters is extremely effective at calming pruritic skin.
  • Benzac Intensive Spot Treatment - A new product from Galderma, it's designed to treat adult acne with 2% Salicylic Acid, and without over-drying. It also contains East Indian Sandalwood Oil, which is extracted from the bark of the East Indian Sandalwood tree in Australia. It offers anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antimicrobial benefits.
  • Elta MD UV Clear SPF 46 - This product contains dimethicone-coated micronized zinc oxide which offers an elegant moisturizing formulation. For all skin types and colors, it doesn't leave a cast on darker skin tones.
  • Avène Thermal Spring Water - Calms, soothes and softens. Rich in silicate and trace elements, the low salt mineral content does not dry out the skin. The pH 7.5 is a perfect balance of anions and cations. It's also preservative-free and hypoallergenic.
  • Epionce Intensive Nourishing Cream - Extremely moisturizing, this cream utilizes Cellular Targeting Technology that allows lipids and peptides for enhanced skin penetration and moisture barrier repair. It also uses "soft-focus" technology to enhance complexion "glow."
  • Colorscience - This is excellent mineral make-up, especially the combination of Mineral Colorscience Bronzing Primer SPF 20 and Sunforgettable SPF 50 with retractable brush.
  • Oxygenetix - A lightweight healing foundation, it contains soothing botanicals and a rejuvenating complex. It also offers SPF 25 (UVA/UVB) and is water resistant.
  • Aquaphor - I just don't leave home without it! It's great for dry skin anywhere, and especially good for dry lips.
Jeannette Graf, M.D. - Recognized as one of the most distinguished dermatologists in the country, Dr. Graf is well known for her lifestyle and nutritional approach to skin care. A former fellow of NIH, Dr. Graf is consistently featured in national publications and scientific journals for her dermatology, skin science and anti-aging expertise. Dr. Graf is an Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology at the Mount Sinai Medical Center in NY, and is the author of the best-selling book, Stop Aging, Start Living, in which she recognizesthe impact of pH balance on the way we look and feel. 


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